Where can you find the most authentic Italian dinner in Copenhagen?

We are obsessed with Italy. People drink negroni as if it were Ribena, wear Italian football jerseys, and say ’allora!’ even though their primary Italian connection is Supermarco in Sydhavnen.

And we are eating Italian food like never before.

Copenhagen’s menus are overflowing with primi, secondi, and dolci, and every other week, a new osteria/trattoria/spiseria opens. But the multitude of choices can also make it hard to navigate when you’re trying to book a table.

Where should you go when you daydream about spaghetti alle vongole? Or long for a sfogliatella that takes you back to warm summer mornings in Naples?

Ibyen reaches out to some of the city’s unofficial experts—eight Copenhageners with Italian roots—and asks for their advice. Where do they go to eat when they miss the food from their homeland? And what do they order?

Desiré Alfredo

Works as a bike courier for the company By-Expressen, 32 years old.

Which region are you from?

»I am from Lazio in central Italy, where we have many delicious ingredients. My favorites are Roman artichokes and pecorino. The dish I love the most is called pomodori con riso, which consists of baked tomatoes filled with rice and cooked together with potatoes.«

Where do you go in Copenhagen when you miss an authentic Italian meal? And what do you order?

»When I feel homesick, I need a real Italian trattoria. Nothing fancy—no natural wine, no sourdough bread—just good food and friendly service. My favorite place is La Vecchia Signora. It’s located on Grønnegade, very touristy, but it’s exactly the place I want to go when I want to forget how far I am from home.«

»I usually order bruschetta with olive oil and tomatoes. If it’s summer, also some prosciutto and melon. Afterwards, I’d have a marinara pizza, and for dessert, their tartufo, a store-bought ice cream you can find in many pizzerias and low-profile restaurant menus. You can also ask to have it with an espresso on top—a perfect affogato to end the meal.«

Marina Salmaso

Italian teacher, 65 years old.

Which region are you from?

»I come from the Veneto region in northeastern Italy. My hometown is Padova. One thing we are known for is Aperol. It actually originates from Padova and came about in 1919. The name Aperol comes from the word aperitivo. Back then, they wanted to create an aperitivo that wasn’t too strong so that the ladies could also join in. And yes, it ended up being a huge success.«

Where do you go in Copenhagen when you miss an authentic Italian meal? And what do you order?

»Famo, which has three restaurants on Vesterbro, Østerbro, and Frederiksberg. They have some fantastic homemade dishes. Nothing too minimalist, which I like. I always go for their menus. I think the large ones, with four to five courses, cost around 500 kroner. You get a primo, which is always something with pasta or risotto. After that, you get fish or meat and some side dishes, and then you finish with dessert.«

»I would also recommend Ma Me Mi near Istedgade. Italians run the kitchen there. I know because I oftentest the staff in different restaurants. I start speaking Italian to them, and if they respond, we chat a bit. At Ma Me Mi, they have good antipasti but also really good pizzas with potatoes and rosemary and mortadella and pistachio.«

Leonora Misciattelli

Studies physics at the University of Copenhagen, 22 years old.

Which region are you from?

»I grew up in Umbria—the region known as the green heart of Italy and the birthplace of sausage and charcuterie. There is a deep tradition of norcineria—the art of making sausages.«

Where do you go in Copenhagen when you miss an authentic Italian meal? And what do you order?

»When I want to eat something authentic Italian in Copenhagen, I go to Il Grappolo Blu or their sister restaurant Osteria Alfredo on Vesterbro. Run by the sweetest Italian owners, they serve slightly more playful Italian food with a little twist on the otherwise very traditional Italian cuisine. Additionally, they make all their food gluten-free, which is a huge plus since I have celiac disease.«

»Il Grappolo Blu always has some fun seasonal dishes. Their tartare gets new accompaniments every now and then, and I can warmly recommend it. At Osteria Alfredo, I would order a calzone. It’s rare to find one gluten-free that tastes incredibly good.«

»If you’re on a budget, I also recommend Trattoria Luca in Lyngby. It is a place with authentic Italian food and Italian kitchen staff and managers. They serve, among other things, antipasto misto—a plate with a mix of appetizers.«

Marco Pomelli

Pianist and piano teacher, 30 years old.

Which region are you from?

»I come from the Veneto region. We are well-known for radicchio di Treviso—a slightly bitter salad that tastes amazing. We use it in risotto, among other dishes. Another specialty is baccalà, salted cod. My family is from Venice, and there, we use a lot of fish and shellfish. I vividly remember my grandfather standing in the kitchen, making risotto or spaghetti alle vongole. He was a fantastic cook.«

Where do you go in Copenhagen when you miss an authentic Italian meal? And what do you order?

»For an authentic Italian meal, I always recommend eating at home in relaxed surroundings with friends and family. But when I do want to go out, I go to Mastro in Hellerup. When I step in, it feels like stepping into a restaurant in Italy. I love living in Denmark and Copenhagen, but sometimes I miss the Italian atmosphere and vibe. You get that there.«

»You must try their vitello tonnato-slices of veal with a tuna sauce and fried capers on top. It might sound a bit strange, but it works. Another dish I order is their carpaccio, thinly sliced beef filet with arugula and parmigiano topped with balsamic vinegar. Their menu changes depending on the season, but in summer, I love to order their spaghetti vongole, and later in the year, I recommend their rabbit ragout.«

Sofia Corsano

Studies African studies at the University of Copenhagen, 26 years old.

Which region are you from?

»I come from the small town of Amelia in the Umbria region. When it comes to food, we specialize in meat. There are quite a few farmers in town—they make dried sausages, which we often eat as an aperitivo. Furthermore, many go hunting, so we also eat rabbits, pigeons, and other birds. Traditional dishes include faraona arrosto, roast guinea fowl with herbs, and pasta chinghiale, where we use wild boar. We also have a traditional dessert called fichi girotti, which are dried figs filled with chocolate.«

Where do you go in Copenhagen when you miss an authentic Italian meal? And what do you order?

»Food is like art to us Italians. There is a lot of dignity associated with it, and the culture is that you always cook at home. So we only eat out when we want to treat ourselves.«

»When I want pizza, I visit Pizzeria Luca at Gammel Strand. They serve Naples-style pizzas and follow the Italian concept—the smaller, the better. Additionally, they also have Italian beers. When I’m there, I order their pizza patate e salsiccia.«

»Another pizza place I love is C’ho Fame in Larsbjørnsstræde, which makes Rome-inspired pizzas. Many Italians eat there, and those who work there are from Italy. That’s why we go there—we generally trust other Italians. I like their arugula pizza with ham and small tomatoes.«

»Il Mattarello is a stand in Torvehallerne that I visit when I want pasta or other dishes. An Italian runs it, and all the chefs are Italian. They serve really good homemade food, and I love their carbonara.«

»One last place I want to mention is V’italian on Gråbrødretorv. An Italian restaurant that makes vegan food. It’s quite difficult, but they are really creative. In my opinion, they make some of the best focaccia in Copenhagen, and I really like their tiramisu.«

Irene Campolmi

Curator at KØS - Museum for Art in Public Spaces, 37 years old.

Which region are you from?

»I was born and raised in Poggibonsi, a small town in Tuscany, located between Siena and Florence. My parents’ house is on the outskirts of the town, two minutes’ walk from where the famous road to the villages Castellina and Gaiole begins. In Tuscany, it’s part of your upbringing to know which vegetables are in season when, and because of the mild winters and warm summers, I grew up eating green beans, all sorts of salads, large tomatoes—we call them cuore di bue (ox heart)—artichokes, zucchini with flowers, eggplant, and fennel.«

»In my family, it was my grandmothers who made us lunch every day after school because my parents were at work all day. My maternal grandmother’s specialty was homemade gnocchi with pomarola—a classic tomato sauce made the previous summer with fresh tomatoes—and fennel parmigiana. She would first coat fennel pieces in breadcrumbs, then fry them in scorching oil. It was delicious!«

»My paternal grandmother had a completely different menu. When I was little, she served deep-fried cow brain—a dish which in fairy tales made the little children smarter. We also had fried chicken with potatoes whenever we wanted, but also bread-based dishes like pappa al pomodoro (a bread soup with tomato sauce) and panzanella (a cold bread dish with cucumber, red onion, basil, and fresh tomatoes, topped with vinegar and olive oil). Her signature dishes, however, were lasagna and vitello tonnato, a classic.«

Where do you go in Copenhagen when you miss an authentic Italian meal? And what do you order?

»I go to Mangia, an Italian classic in Copenhagen. It has been around for a long time, but the quality and selection never disappoint me. But there are also new good places, such as Casamadre on Tagensvej, which has a really good peposo—a dish we eat at Christmas, consisting of beef braised in red wine with peppercorns and served with mashed potatoes.«

»There is also Calma in Jægersborggade, which serves a delicious tuna in bagna cauda with pistachios. Bagna cauda is a dip with anchovies, garlic, and olive oil. Finally, there’s Bar Poldo, a lovely wine bar in the city center that has some delightful food tastings.«

»Unfortunately, I was diagnosed with severe gluten allergy 12 years ago, and it meant I had to stop eating wheat and grains with gluten. So I can’t recommend any restaurant’s pasta dishes. But I love places like Graziano for their family-style vibes.«

»As any proud Italian, I also love gelato, whether it’s sunny or a classic gray Copenhagen day. Whenever I have the chance, I stop by Siciliansk Is at Skjolds Plads on my way home to Nordvest. It’s simply the best gelato spot, and it has a lovely atmosphere. The queue outside proves that it hasn’t disappointed anyone yet. I also recommend Aurora Ismageri near Søndermarken, which has delicious lactose-free ice cream.«