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Politiken's Cooking School

Bake the fastelavn bun that is repeatedly voted the best in town

In Sankt Peders Stræde in Copenhagen, the best fastelavn buns (Shrovetide buns in English) in town were baked until October 2023. Period. In 2022, Politiken was allowed to look over the shoulder of Nanna Pörtner, the owner of Dessertdragens Kageværksted, to see how she made her famous buns. With ample time and patience, you can replicate her craft. But read the recipe carefully and be prepared to spread the process over a couple of days.

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When I opened 16 years ago, ’fastelavnsboller’ (Shrovetide buns, ed.) were something you bought at the bakery. There were no cake shops at all. It was either a Spandauer-like pastry with jam or a chocolate bun with cream. There were no other options.

I wanted to make a fastelavn bun myself, and it made sense to use Danish pastry dough. Danish pastry dough is the classic dough used for Danish pastries, which we have been making in Denmark since bakers from Vienna came to the country in the 1830s and taught us how (In Danish, Danish pastries are called Viennese bread). You roll layers of yeast dough with butter. The fastelavn buns are filled with a tangy compote, vanilla cream, and whipped cream.

We assemble them when people buy them, so they are fresh. The first couple of years, it was because we sold so few. This way, we avoided having to throw some out in the evening when they weren’t sold, and they also taste better.

This article is a translation

This article was originally published in Danish. It has been translated with the help of AI and subsequently proofread by a member of the editorial staff.

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Fastelavn buns have filled a gap in the baker’s season. Previously, January and February were very quiet months. People had eaten too much at Christmas and spent too much money on sales, so they didn’t want cake. But now they do. Fastelavn buns are everwhere, taking over the displays of Copenhagen bakeries in January and February. With the following recipe, you can learn to bake the hyped pastry yourself.

Every year, I consider whether my fastelavn buns are too boring. Should I make something else? There are so many other fastelavnsboller around the city, but then I look at them and think, is it a fastelavn bun or a tartlet with filling? Or a croissant-fastelavnsbolle. So now they remain as they are.

Before you start

This is NOT a recipe you make quickly. It requires time, will, patience, and skills. On the other hand, the result will be excellent. Read it through before you begin, and possibly do the process over two days. Here are five important things to remember:


  1. You need to make four things: compote, vanilla cream, whipped cream, and the buns of Danish pastry dough.
  2. Compote and cream must be cold when used. The same goes for the buns (otherwise the whipped cream will melt), and making the dough takes time. The buns need to rise for quite a while, so if you want to bake them the same day you eat them, don’t linger too long over the newspaper before you start.
  3. You can use the jam you like best. Dessertdragen has apricot, blackcurrant, raspberry, and prune. Just remember that it needs to have a certain tanginess because it competes with the rather sweet vanilla cream and the richness of the whipped cream in the bun.
  4. It would be optimal if you have a mixer to make the dough, but you can knead it by hand. A proper rolling pin is crucial.
  5. Remember to take the butter that will be rolled into the dough out the night before you make the dough.

Here’s what you need:

The recipe is for 15 filled fastelavn buns.

Vanilla cream

  • 2 dl whole milk
  • 1 dl heavy cream
  • 55 g sugar
  • 80 grams (approx. 4 pcs.) egg yolks
  • seeds from a quarter vanilla bean
  • 25 g cornstarch

Additionally

Whipped cream from 1 dl heavy cream (mix in when the cream is COMPLETELY cooled) + 2 dl whipped cream to fill the buns

Compote:

  • 250 g blackcurrants
  • 250 g sugar
  • 1-2 tbsp water
  • 6 g pectin

Danish pastry dough

  • 125 g cold water
  • 62,5 g egg, equivalent to approx. 1.5 eggs (whisk together and weigh. Save the rest to brush the buns with)
  • 25 grams yeast
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 50 g butter (soft)
  • 300 g cold flour (put in the freezer overnight)
  • 275 g butter

Remonce

  • 50 g soft butter
  • 50 g sugar
  • 50 g marzipan

Decoration

  • Cocoa and powdered sugar for icing
  • Chopped pistachio kernels for sprinkling
Behind the recipe

Nanna Pörtner Jensen

Nanna Pörtner Jensen trained at Ørnebageriet in Nordvest, Copenhagen. She lived on the fourth floor above the bakery, so »I couldn’t skip work.«

She has also worked in New Zealand and New York, as well as at Kroghs Fiskerestaurant, SMK, and Hotel d’Angleterre.

Nanna Pörtner got her nickname, ’Dessertdragen’ (Dessert Dragon), while working at a restaurant where the head chef thought she was exceptionally good at breathing fire when her temper was challenged. Such nicknames tend to stick, and Nanna Pörtner decided to use it as the name for her patisserie.

In 2006, she opened Dessertdragens Kageværksted in Sankt Peders Stræde in Copenhagen K. It closed in October 2023.

Start with the vanilla cream

The vanilla cream must be completely cold before use. Therefore, we start with that.

Here, you essentially need to know two things. Use whole milk, not skim or low-fat milk, and don’t skimp on the vanilla.

Boil half of the whole milk and cream with sugar and vanilla.

Whisk the egg yolks together with the rest of the milk and cornstarch. When the milk boils, carefully pour in the egg mixture and whisk until thick over heat.

Now the cream must be COMPLETELY cooled before you mix it with whipped cream from 1 dl of cream.

You can put the cream in a piping bag to pipe it into the buns, but you can also store it in a bowl or container if you prefer to fill the buns with a spoon. Refrigerate until use.

Also, make the compote unless you buy it. Boil blackcurrants, sugar, and a little water, mix sugar and pectin, add while whisking, and boil through. Cool down.

Butter block for the dough

Danish pastry dough is dough where butter is rolled into layers within the dough. When making Danish pastry dough, forget everything you’ve learned about working with sourdough and long-rise doughs. Here, we are not interested in gluten working and becoming elastic, nor are we interested in the dough starting to rise. Therefore, the dough must be made from cold ingredients and only kneaded until it comes together, not smashed around in the mixer until it’s overworked.

If you don’t have a mixer, you can knead it by hand, but do it quickly. Preferably work in a kitchen that is not too warm.

Begin the evening before by taking the large portion of butter out of the refrigerator and letting it sit out overnight at room temperature.

Pound it out between 2 pieces of parchment paper until it forms a rectangular piece about 1 1/2 cm thick. Let it cool for a few minutes in the refrigerator.

Make the remoncen

Meanwhile, make the remonce so it’s ready. Mix soft butter, sugar, and marzipan together, and set aside, not in the refrigerator.

Mix the dough

Mix the remaining ingredients for the dough. Combine the dough in a mixer or knead by hand until it forms a firm dough.

Before you start rolling out, it is crucial that you have a proper rolling pin. It should have weight (could you use it to knock out a burglar? If so, it’s heavy enough), so the rolling pin does the work for you without you having to apply much pressure.

It should also roll smoothly. A good rolling pin has ball bearings that make it roll like a dream.

Roll butter in the dough

Roll the dough out into an elongated rectangle. It should be about 1.5-2 cm high. Now it’s time to place the butter.

Imagine dividing the dough into three parts, and the flattened butter, when placed on one-third of the dough, should be about 2 cm smaller than the dough all the way around, so dough meets dough when folded and sticks together, enclosing the butter. Also, press the butter slightly into the dough so it sits within the dough.

Place the butter on the middle third, and fold the dough in three. This means folding one third from the left over to the right, and then folding the opposite third from the right over to the left.

Roll the dough out into a straight piece

Turn the dough half a turn. On the two sides of the dough where it is folded, make a thin cut with a sharp knife to cut through the gluten strands, preventing the dough from pulling back.

Use enough flour to keep the dough from sticking to the table or rolling pin, but as little as possible. There is enough flour in the dough, and the more you use, the drier the dough becomes.

Roll the dough out again to a thickness of 2 cm and fold it again. It will benefit from resting in the refrigerator for ten minutes. Place the folded dough in the refrigerator (on a piece of parchment paper on a cutting board), so it gets cold and doesn’t start to rise, and the gluten has time to relax.

Afterwards, make cuts in the two folds again before rolling out. Fold a third time. Let the dough rest for another ten minutes.

After the third folding, roll the piece out to 30 x 50 cm, being careful to roll it into a square. If you end up rolling it unevenly, trim it. Cut into five strips lengthwise and three strips crosswise, so you get a total of 15 pieces in squares of 10 by 10 centimeters.

Do not make them larger because they look small. They will rise, and if you make them larger, you risk them not rising properly and collapsing during baking. Even if the baking succeeds, you would end up with a bun that is too large, which, filled with whipped cream and vanilla cream, would be an overwhelming, almost cloying experience.

Fill and fold

Place a dollop of remonce in the center of each square. Make sure to use all the remonce. Fold the four corners over the remonce so they meet in the middle and give a little press. It’s not necessary to be as meticulous about sealing the bun as you would if baking with custard.

Turn the bun over with the seams down and let it rise in a warm place. This can take from 1 to 3 hours.

Do not try to cheat by placing the buns in a warm spot like on an oven, as you risk the butter melting and running out of the dough, making all the rolling efforts in vain.

When the buns have risen to a little over double their size and are soft and airy, brush them gently with egg and bake at 200 degrees Celsius for about 12-14 minutes.

Cool the buns completely. If you attempt to fill warm buns, the cream and whipped cream will melt.

If you want to split the baking over two days, you can take the shaped but unbaked buns and freeze them for fifteen minutes to shock the yeast. Then refrigerate them overnight. The next morning, take them out, let them rise, and bake.

Now comes the fun part – assembling the buns

Pour the vanilla cream, mixed smoothly with whipped cream, into a disposable piping bag with a round tip. Put whipped cream into a disposable piping bag with a star tip. Or grab a couple of spoons if you don’t have tips or piping bags.

Cut the buns in half, and spread a layer of jam on the bottom. Pipe vanilla cream at the back, and whipped cream in rosettes at the front using a star tip.

Decorating

Spread icing, made from cocoa powder, powdered sugar, and warm water, on top. You don’t need to waste a disposable piping bag; you can easily spread it with a small palette knife or a butter knife. Sprinkle with chopped pistachios or other attractive sprinkles. Then they are ready to be enjoyed.

Finally

An ekstra tip


If there are buns left over, they can be gently frozen and thawed slowly. If they are not too darkly baked, they can be lightly warmed in the oven to become crispy again. They don’t keep well from day to day because they dry out. But if you know you will have leftover buns, do as Dessertdragen does: Enjoy a freshly baked warm Danish pastry bun, plain, right out of the oven. The rest you can prepare for your guests.

Happy Shrovetide/Fastelavn!

Redaktion

Told to: Sarah Skarum

Recipe: Nanna Pörtner

Video: Henrik Haupt

Layout: Karina Kofoed

Editor: Mette Mølbak



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