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Let’s get this straight right away: The hyped Aarhus restaurant is not easy on the eyes. But the people behind it know their way around a kitchen.

Food critic: As a Copenhagener, you can’t help feeling a little jealous of Aarhus because of this place

Uterus-red walls meet checkered floors, heavy furniture, and unfinished electrical work. In the bathroom, Soviet instructional posters hang on the wall, explaining the steering mechanism of a Lada Samara. car. Foto: Katrine Noer/Katrine Noer
Uterus-red walls meet checkered floors, heavy furniture, and unfinished electrical work. In the bathroom, Soviet instructional posters hang on the wall, explaining the steering mechanism of a Lada Samara. car. Foto: Katrine Noer/Katrine Noer

Livmoderrøde vægge møder slidte skakternede gulve, tænk tunge, polstrede, mørkebrune krostuemøbler, uafsluttet elarbejde, en transistor i hjørnet og papkasser hist og pist. Læg hertil dramatisk og farverig kunst og – lad os kalde dem – originale lampeløsninger. Og et toilet, hvor der på væggene hænger sovjetiske undervisningsplakater om styretøjet på en Lada Samara.

Populær restaurant i det centrale Aarhus er ikke køn. Og jeg tror, det er meningen, skriver Lærke Kløvedal i denne anmeldelse.

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