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The cucumber beams were a multigreen trip. Foto: Jacob Ehrbahn

A compressed cucumber and a pierced calf tongue knocked the last bit of balance out from under my barstool as I was swept away by the food, the soul, the funk and the kitchen’s radiant good cheer.

Food critic: It’s the only place I want to be from now on

The cucumber beams were a multigreen trip. Foto: Jacob Ehrbahn

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