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The famous Copenhagen restaurant has for decades been like a lie in Las Vegas. Now it is finally starting to find itself. But the zeal to do Michelin-level gourmet could stand to ease up a little.

Food critic: Newly renovated restaurant is clearly aiming for Michelin stars

A mix of roe in a beurre blanc with anchovies and pieces of white asparagus was exactly the masterpiece the reviewer had been hoping for. Foto: Vikki Søholm
A mix of roe in a beurre blanc with anchovies and pieces of white asparagus was exactly the masterpiece the reviewer had been hoping for. Foto: Vikki Søholm
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From the outside, it looks like an idyllic watercolor of the sort tourists buy from a painter in a cobblestoned square of dashed dreams.

It seems fused to the crooked medieval houses and sits by a canal pulsing with big-city life.Oversættelsesdisclaimer

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Edition 2

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