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Food critic David Dyrholm eats his way through Copenhagen. Today, he tries two new self-serve lunches with an embedded comeback for a classic.

The Chinese box is back. Or is it?

Not the city's most photogenic dish, but the inside counts more, fortunately.
Not the city's most photogenic dish, but the inside counts more, fortunately.
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China boxes don’t have the best reputation here at home, to put it mildly. There must be limits to how many pieces of soggy, fried meat and tired vegetables one can and should cram into a cardboard box.

There is all sorts of fantastic Chinese takeaway available in this city, but the boxes from downtown Copenhagen look like pure tourist traps. Unfortunately, they taste like it too, I can conclude after revisiting them. Just like the shopping trip to the big city at age 14... food evokes memories, sadly not all of them good.

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