What is this place?
The village in Nørrebro – the area between Sjællandsgadebadet, Guldbergs Plads, and Tagensvej – has slowly transformed over the past few years from a place you pass through to a neighborhood you want to linger in.
Sabotøren serves wine and beer, while Omar offers solid everyday food at very fair prices. Taberna Buzio opens canned fish and serves Portuguese specialties, Fatter & Havmanden acts as a luxury kiosk, and Rondo provides the baked goods.
And now Bonni has arrived. A tiny café opened by two young friends from Bornholm, who both left their office jobs to fulfill their dream of creating the neighborhood’s new go-to spot for early risers and lunch-goers.
They have truly succeeded.
What’s the atmosphere like?
Just a few weeks after opening, Bonni is already extremely popular.
I encountered friends on coffee dates exchanging dating stories (pure horror!), a couple of older women in fur coats picking up grandchildren from daycare later in the day, students with books in front of them and headphones on, mothers with baby monitors around their necks – a good mix. I only spotted one man and don’t quite know what that means, but it’s interesting...
The times I’ve visited, there’s been a scramble for seats, but it doesn’t take much as there are only 10-12 chairs and stools in the place. You sit close and will most likely share a table with a stranger.
In short: you get to know each other. It quickly became apparent that Bonni has made a strong impression on the neighborhood. Rumor has it there are plans to take over the neighboring space later this year, which would solve the seating issue
What should I order?
If you’re out early for breakfast, be sure to order the homemade scone (50 kroner) with spring onions and sesame seeds. Crispy on the outside, buttery inside, and a salty start to the day with a little kick from the accompanying caramelized onion and chili cream.
The breakfast plate with three half slices of sourdough bread (from Rondo around the corner), Vesterhavs cheese, berry compote, and salted butter that tasted like Arla Unika, was also priced at 50 kroner – a very fair price for a breakfast served on porcelain indoors in the warmth.
Alright, what else?
Later in the day, for lunch, I recommend going for the steaming hot ribollita – the Tuscan stew of kale, white beans, and vegetable broth, here with large, crispy bread croutons, dollops of coarsely chopped pesto, and freshly grated Parmesan on top.
A totally acceptable lunch for 95 kroner. If you’re a meat-eater, add the fried slices of roasted chorizo for 15 kroner. It gave the soup a bit more depth with a little paprika kick, warming you up in the winter cold.
The so-called winter stew (also priced at 95 kroner) had more cabbage (several kinds), potatoes, parsley, aioli on top, and a sprinkle of za’atar, which tingled on the tongue with flavors of sumac, cumin, and sesame. Not high art, but a nourishing and tasty meal at a very fair price.
Skip the lemonade, it’s too sweet, and opt instead for the bottle of kombucha with apple, tarragon, and algae (!) for 45 kroner. Wow, did I feel healthy.
Why four hearts?
Amalie Stoltz and Augusta Boie, the two women behind Bonni, have created a truly successful café and a welcome addition to the village.
There was a need for a place that wasn’t just open in the evenings, where you could settle in for a quick coffee, a longer breakfast date, or a peaceful lunch. They fulfill that need completely. The fact that they also serve some wine and cheap long drinks over the counter on weekends only adds to the appeal.
I understand why Bonni has already become a hit in the neighborhood.
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