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It started promisingly, with the famed chef’s twist on Japanese cuisine. Then came the hollow feeling of a chic airport lounge—tasteful decor, tame house music, and food you’ll forget by tomorrow.

All was well at the top chef’s new spot. Then it all went south

A selection of sashimi—featuring bluefin tuna and Danish hiramasa—was the clear highlight of the evening. Foto: Thomas Borberg
A selection of sashimi—featuring bluefin tuna and Danish hiramasa—was the clear highlight of the evening. Foto: Thomas Borberg
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An elongated chicken meatball on a skewer—a juicy sausage of minced bird brushed with egg yolk.

When it’s done right, it’s damn good.

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