The team behind a new deli in Nordvest lets their Chinese heritage shine through in everything from salads to pastries. It mostly works quite well.

You've never had your spandauer like this before

Jet-black on top and chewy inside. Goose's spandauer is entirely different from the classic version from Guldbageren. Here, they are pictured alongside the Nordvest deli's take on a croissant and a rice crispie. Foto: Mads Nissen
Jet-black on top and chewy inside. Goose's spandauer is entirely different from the classic version from Guldbageren. Here, they are pictured alongside the Nordvest deli's take on a croissant and a rice crispie. Foto: Mads Nissen
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What kind of place is this?

When a deli offering croissants for 45 kroner opens in your neighborhood, it’s a sign that the days of beer-thirsty crowds impatiently gathering at the kiosk from 7 AM are over, and the small apartments have been renovated, the price per square meterskyrocketing. With a touch of self-aware humor, the new Goose Deli on Tomsgårdsvej cheekily writes on its Instagram: »Gentrifying a neighbourhood near you since 2025«.

Goose Deli can’t take credit for Nordvest distancing itself from its past. Over the years, several trendy spots – Autopoul, Tekno Eatery, Flere Fugle – have opened in the area. But Goose might just be the cherry on top.

How often does an ambitious deli open that combines inspiration from China with croissants and Danish pastries? As in, never before, if I scroll through my café memory.

Here, the duo Lan-xin Foo (also behind Foo Ferments, known for hoisin sauce and fermented pea purée) and Baijie Curdt-Christiansen (formerly of Bageriet B) have opened a deli where their Chinese heritage gracefully infuses both savory and sweet treats.

What should i choose from the menu?

Grab a sando sandwich: Home-baked, fluffy, and pure white bread in a tight square with fillings: either a version with minced pork and cabbage or freshly made omelet, pickles, finely chopped spring onions, mayo, and tomato sauce (115 kr.). And as a delightful bonus: homemade chili oil in a bowl. Be sure to get a noodle salad with seaweed and tofu on the side: It’s refreshing with its light vinaigrette (85 kr.).

How is the interior?

Goose is located in a large, bright, tiled corner space, which might once have been a bakery or butcher shop. The decor is simple and smart with small square tables, an orange counter, disco-glittering lampshades, and Electric Youth’s mix of Japanese Ryuichi Sakamoto’s gentle tones playing from the speakers.

What can and should you drink here?

We had coffee (beans sourced from the micro-roastery Omni in Vorupør, Thy), with a lovely acidity that complemented the buttery pastries perfectly.

What should you not miss?

Goose’s take on the classic Danish pastry (a spandauer), which is a beautifully baked puff pastry topped with black sweet sesame paste and filled with sticky rice instead of the traditional yellow custard. It’s not just beautiful, crisp, and mildly sweet; it’s also delightfully chewy with its mochi-like texture.

I was also quite into a ‘rice crispie,’ which, thankfully, has little in common with the American cereal of the same name. Made with puffed rice, sesame, and marshmallow, it had a candy-like salty-sweet flavor and a chewy-crisp texture.

What is the signature dish?

Cheesy Jiang Puff (65 kr.) is one of Goose’s proud highlights, but for me, it was the least interesting offering. The spelt puff pastry with potato, fermented Ingrid pea purée, and Vesterhavs cheese had a dense, somewhat heavy consistency and mostly tasted of butter.

Who should you bring here?

Health freaks might be concerned when invited for a buttery breakfast, as I found out. So instead, bring your foodie friend – someone who can squeal with delight over the taste of coconut jam and a slab of butter in a croissant or getting five-spice seasoning on their cinnamon roll.

Do price and quality match?

When dining at a place where both soy sauce and jiang are homemade and the pastries reflect precise craftsmanship and flair for new combinations, the kroner slip more easily than when grabbing a snack at the kiosk. And I’ll gladly pay 30 kroner for a rice crispie at Goose again.

Why four hearts?

The exotic goose on Tomsgårdsvej is a cool acquaintance. Every detail is meticulously managed, and all ingredients are chosen and combined with care. This results in unique and particularly delightful flavors you won’t find elsewhere in Copenhagen. But if I’m to become a regular customer, the menu needs more items that aren’t so heavy on the stomach.


Birgitte Kjær

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